Chainmaille isn’t just for medieval armor anymore. From intricate jewelry to bold accessories, this ancient technique has found a stronghold in the modern crafting world. At the heart of every chainmaille creation is one essential component: the jump ring. Choosing the right jump rings can make or break your design, affecting not just the look but the durability and feel of the finished piece. Whether you're a beginner or a seasoned artisan, understanding how to select the best jump rings for chainmaille is key to mastering the craft.
What Makes a Good Jump Ring for Chainmaille?
Not all jump rings are created equal, especially when it comes to chainmaille. The right ring depends on several core factors:
1. Inner Diameter (ID) and Wire Gauge
Inner Diameter (ID): This measures the space inside the ring. It determines how many rings you can connect and how tight or loose your weave will be.
Wire Gauge: The thickness of the wire impacts the ring’s strength and the project’s flexibility. Lower gauge means thicker wire. For chainmaille, common gauges include 16G to 20G.
2. Aspect Ratio (AR)
The Aspect Ratio (AR) is the ID divided by the wire diameter. It’s one of the most critical measurements in chainmaille. Each weave requires a specific AR range to look and function properly. For example:
European 4-in-1: AR around 4.0–5.0
Byzantine Weave: AR around 3.5–4.5
Japanese Weaves: Often require mixed ring sizes
Without the right AR, the pattern may be too tight (hard to weave) or too loose (won’t hold its shape).
Best Materials for Chainmaille Jump Rings
Each material has its own feel, look, and strength. Your choice should reflect the purpose of the piece—whether it's for beauty, durability, or weight.
Aluminum (Anodized): Lightweight, colorful, and easy to manipulate. Great for beginners and decorative pieces.
Stainless Steel: Very strong and tarnish-resistant. A bit harder to work with but ideal for long-lasting wear.
Titanium: Lightweight like aluminum but with greater strength and a sleek finish.
Niobium: Hypoallergenic and colorable—perfect for sensitive skin and vibrant designs.
Copper and Brass: Warm-toned and easy to shape, though they tarnish over time (which can add to the aesthetic if patina is desired).
Saw-Cut vs Machine-Cut Jump Rings
When creating chainmaille, saw-cut rings are preferred over machine-cut ones. Why?
Saw-Cut Rings: Have flush ends that close cleanly with no gaps, improving strength and appearance.
Machine-Cut Rings: Often leave a burr or angled edge, making it harder to get a seamless close.
A clean close is especially important in jewelry, where any gap can compromise the design or feel scratchy against the skin.
Popular Weaves and Their Ring Needs
Each weave has its own rhythm and requirements. Here’s a quick look at what you’ll need:
Box Chain / Byzantine: Needs jump rings with a tighter AR, often between 3.2 and 4.2.
European 4-in-1 / 6-in-1: Requires precise AR (4.0–5.5), with more flexibility for looser or tighter drapes.
Japanese 12-in-2: Usually involves two ring sizes—large ones for connecting, smaller ones for structural support.
Tips for Success in Chainmaille Projects
Buy From Reputable Suppliers: Look for companies that provide precise measurements and quality control.
Use Two Pliers: One in each hand—for opening and closing rings cleanly and quickly.
Test Weaves First: Practice a sample section to check if the rings and weave work well together.
Invest in Organization: Use labeled containers to separate ring sizes and metals. It saves time and reduces mistakes.
Conclusion
Chainmaille is a rewarding art form, but it all starts with the right foundation: quality jump rings. Understanding aspects like diameter, gauge, material, and aspect ratio ensures you’ll have a smooth crafting experience and professional-looking results. Whether you’re creating a simple bracelet or a complex statement piece, the right jump rings are your most powerful tool.
